Aria has graced the corner of East Paces Ferry and Maple Drive since 2000. Over the last 25 years, countless Atlantans and distinguished visitors have celebrated anniversaries, engagements, holidays, and cherished moments in its dining room. While the interior design and menu have evolved over the last quarter century, the level of excellence has remained steadfast, allowing Aria to flourish when 50 percent of restaurants in America don’t survive beyond five years.
Whether patrons are indulging in beloved mainstays like the creamless celery root soup and braised short rib of beef or exploring seasonal offerings, all acknowledge that Aria has perfected an enduring experience, thanks to the foundation established by Ron San Martin, George McKerrow, and chef Gerry Klaskala, who is retiring this year after appointing his successor, Andrés Loaiza, the restaurant’s long-standing general manager.
Klaskala spent the first nine years of his career with Hyatt Hotels, including an executive chef
position in Savannah. In 1985, he became the co-owner and chef of 45 South in Savannah,
where Pano Karatassos, founder of Buckhead Life Restaurant Group, recognized his
exceptional talent. Karatassos offered him a position at the helm of the shuttered iconic
Buckhead Diner as chef and managing partner in 1987.
Klaskala was catapulted to the top of the Buckhead restaurant community. “It was the most wildly successful restaurant this city has ever seen. It was documented as the busiest restaurant in the country per square foot,” he remembers. “Standing room only, from quarter to noon to quarter to midnight. Quite the scene.”
The extraordinary success of Buckhead Diner led Klaskala to partner with George McKerrow and Ron San Martin on Canoe, which celebrates its 30th anniversary this year, before the trio set up Aria five years later. Most chefs and restaurateurs rarely achieve even one remarkable success, let alone several, but for those familiar with Klaskala, his trajectory is hardly surprising.
Consistency, even through the most challenging times, distinguishes Aria from other dining establishments. Klaskala attributes this to his unwavering commitment to the Aria experience.
“You have to be committed to preparation, to execution, to excellence,” he says. “Every decision and all of your interactions, from the dishwasher to the banker, have to follow that commitment. If you’re not totally in love with this business and fully committed….[this industry] will chew you up and spit you out like a bad hot dog,” he says. “Half an effort is not going to cut it.” This ethos has garnered countless awards and fostered devoted staff, some of whom have been at the restaurant since its inception.
Fortunately, his successor shares the same passion and pursuit of excellence. Loaiza, having served as general manager before stepping into ownership, is ideally positioned after 18 years at the restaurant. For Klaskala, Loaiza was always the natural choice. “He’s always been the right person. He has ‘it,’ which a lot of people don’t have. He does. He gets hospitality and is in love with this business. There was no doubt in my mind,” he says.
Loaiza is prepared for the responsibility. He has orchestrated the front of house with masterful precision, providing exemplary hospitality and service to Atlantans over the past two decades. He also played an instrumental role in harmonizing wines, spirits, and cocktails with Klaskala’s cuisine. Most significantly, he has navigated challenges alongside Klaskala with a comprehensive perspective on how Aria must adapt.
“I think we’ve been very good at evolving with the times,” he reflects. “We’ve always believed in gradual change. As a team, we have to give everyone, front of house and back of house, an opportunity to adjust and understand the changes so they can be successful and present a great experience to guests.”
Loaiza intends to maintain an experience centered around exceptional hospitality and bold, seasonal, forward-thinking American cuisine. He’s also prepared to continue to put in the work Klaskala has to maintain the deserved reputation. “I think we have to keep getting better. We have to keep moving forward, and keep an eye on where we’re going in 5 or 10 years to make it even better than it is now,” he says. “We’ve always known who we are at Aria, and what we want to deliver. We stay true to the mission.”
The transition of leadership carries a certain poignancy and note of bittersweetness, with both men expressing profound respect for one another. “I’ve been privileged to be next to him for 12 hours a day, 5 days a week. I’ve probably spent more time with Gerry than anyone else in my adult life,” Loaiza acknowledges.
While benefiting from direct mentorship, Loaiza has also absorbed leadership qualities from Klaskala, who is known as the go-to troubleshooting guy for restaurateurs in town. “I’ve been honored to sit down with probably every chef at some point in their career,” Klaskala says.
He is humbled by requests for guidance but attributes his effectiveness to his listening abilities.
“It’s listening. If you listen, most people have the answer [they need] inside of them. They just can’t decode it, or aren’t confident enough to make the right decision, or a little afraid of making the right decision,” he explains. His mentee has internalized these lessons and taken notes. “He has an incredible ability to see the way out of a situation, to see things from a different point of view and give clarity,” Loaiza says.
2025 promises to be significant for both men, albeit for different reasons. Klaskala is embracing his next chapter. “The work goes on forever, but life doesn’t,” he says. He plans to devote more time to his children, grandchildren, and wife, whom he met at fifteen, and see where life takes him. “I don’t want a couple of berries off the bush, I want all the berries,” he says.
Loaiza is ready to advance Klaskala’s legacy and create his own. He takes immense pride in his team and their commitment to excellence, and Klaskala is confident Aria is in the right hands. “He’s going to work as hard as he can to get the restaurant pushed in the right direction. He’s instilling his passion and has an elevated sense of operation, and passes it to every member of the staff,” Klaskala says.
Whether through karmic alignment or the result of the foundation Klaskala and Loaiza built together, Aria is experiencing multiple milestones simultaneously, including a nomination for the 2025 James Beard Award’s Outstanding Hospitality category—the only Georgia restaurant among the finalists. According to the foundation, this prestigious recognition honors “a restaurant, bar, or other food and drinking establishment that fosters a sense of hospitality among its customers and staff that serves as a beacon for the community and demonstrates consistent excellence in food, atmosphere, hospitality, and operations.” Aria exemplifies these qualities in every respect. With humility, Loaiza notes that the nomination extends beyond Aria to the entire region. “This level of recognition ups the game for everyone,” he observes.
Klaskala’s last day as chef and co-owner will be June 14th, coinciding with the restaurant’s 25th anniversary. As he searches for his next executive chef, Loaiza reflects on Klaskala’s impact on himself and the industry. “He’s the definition of one of a kind. He’s an amazing cook, an amazing leader, an amazing mentor, and an incredible operator,” he says. May Aria enjoy another quarter century of success.
The spirit of Buckhead heads forward. This is the way it has been, and perhaps this is the way it will always be. The spirit of Buckhead points forward. You see it in the way we work, and you see it in the way we play. The reach is always extending further. The search is for excellence and beauty and grace and vibrancy.
We are a community of individuals. We are diverse, we are dynamic, and we are discerning. We are builders. We are connected to one another with a common bond. A common dream. A common quest. Pointing life in one direction. Forward.
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